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Our trip to the Moselle was actually my first visit to the Moselle. And we quickly realized that we probably wouldn't see everything in three days. But maybe that's why our visit was really fantastic. We concentrated entirely on the beautiful Lower Moselle and therefore hardly spent any time in the car, but mainly on the beautiful hiking trails and in pretty villages. In this article I will therefore summarize what you can experience without any stress on a weekend on the Moselle.
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The starting point of our Moselle journey was the wine-growing town of Winningen on the Lower Moselle. Five minutes after arrival we were blown away. A small rustic place, hardly any other tourists, nice restaurants and pretty half-timbered houses. We spontaneously got a table in one of the restaurants and tried our first Moselle Riesling. Hiking is also excellent here. From the town center you can reach the vineyards in a few minutes. The so-called dream path runs here, a hiking trail that runs high above the Moselle and the vineyards. There are various route options, so everything from small one-hour loops to full-blown hikes is possible. You can also walk directly along the Moselle. By the way, there are numerous beer gardens and restaurants on the Moselle and on the Moselle island.
On the second day of our trip we went for a hike on the Moselsteig. We decided to start from Cochem, which is also where the Apolloweg is, which runs particularly spectacularly through the vineyards. As soon as we arrived, we were able to catch a glimpse of the place, which is considered one of the most beautiful on the Moselle. All in all, Cochem was a bit too big for us and quite touristy. Nevertheless, Cochem was the perfect starting point for our hike. We started on the opposite side of the historic town center, where we quickly discovered a long-term parking lot that was right at the starting point of the hike. Incidentally, the Bundesbank bunker, the former secret bunker of the Deutsche Bundesbank, which can now be visited as a museum, is also very close by.
At the beginning you walk past a panorama hotel before you are already on the hiking trail, high up in the Moselle slope and with a fantastic view of Cochem and the Reichsburg. Now the path winds up the mountain until it leads through a deep forest. Incidentally, you can now continue to Valwig, or walk down the steep pass path from the forest, which leads directly to the Apolloweg, as we did. It is 10-11 kilometers to Valwig and back, the short variant is around 7.5 kilometers long. Now you are on the Apolloweg and walk back to Cochem in the middle of the vines along the Moselle. We really liked this piece. Warning: If you are traveling in summer (or when the sun is out), it can get incredibly hot here.
After the hike in Cochem, we didn't drive straight back to Winningen, but followed the Moselle a little further south. Beilstein, one of the prettiest villages on the Moselle, is only a ten-minute drive away. Beilstein is small, winding and full of restaurants and wine bars. It doesn't take long to see everything, but it's worth stopping at one of the restaurants (perhaps with a glass of Riesling). By the way, you can also take the ferry from the opposite side. By the way, Metternich Castle towers high above the village. We really enjoyed it immensely. Better not to be late, it gets crowded at noon.
If you are on the Lower Moselle, you must of course pay a visit to Eltz Castle. And since it is one of the most famous castles in Germany, it quickly became clear to us that getting up early would be the order of the day. Incidentally, it's only a 20-minute drive from Winningen, so we set off at six in the morning. In fact, the large visitor car park was still completely empty when we arrived. And so we walked very relaxed down the footpath until we had a first and already breathtaking view of the castle. Incidentally, it is a 15-minute walk from the car park to the castle. You can walk a small circular route, so you have a different way back than there. The route is 2.5 kilometers long in total. And unlike most castles, you walk steeply downhill on the way there, because Eltz Castle is not enthroned on a mountain but is embedded in a fairytale valley. Alternatively, you can also go on great all-day hikes here, for example on the "Eltzer Burgpanorama" dream trail.
You can visit the castle daily from 9:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. for 12 euros. Dogs are unfortunately not allowed. Parking in the main car park cost 4 euros and some of the surrounding hiking car parks are also subject to a fee. When we visited in the morning, the gate to the castle courtyard was still closed, so we were the only people there.
By the way: There is a strict ban on drone flights at Eltz Castle.
Another castle worth seeing is Burg Thurant in Alken. And even if you really get to see a lot of castles on the Moselle, I found this double castle particularly beautiful. It is located high up on the slopes of the Moselle and can also be visited as part of a hike. Unfortunately, the weather was not kind to us, so we only walked the small circular path around the castle. The castle is open from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. or 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., depending on the season. A visit costs 4.50 euros, unfortunately dogs are not allowed here either.
Other excursion destinations on the Lower Moselle:
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